2014 Dodge Dart electrical problems

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The contact owns a 2014 Dodge Dart. The contact stated that when the vehicle was purchased, the driver’s side window failed to function as intended. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the traction control warning light illuminated and, on another occasion, the vehicle failed to turn off as intended. The battery cables were disconnected, and the battery was removed from the vehicle. An unknown message about the electrical system was displayed. In addition, the RPM revved high while the vehicle was idling or being driven. The contact stated that on a separate occasion, while the vehicle was idling, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. The contact stated that on a separate occasion, oil stains were found on the ground underneath the vehicle. The contact stated that the vehicle was consuming an excessive amount of engine oil. In addition, the gas cap lever failed to function as intended. The contact had to pull the panel on the driver's side door to manually use the button inside the panel to open the fuel filler door. The vehicle was taken to the private dealer where the vehicle was purchased for an inspection; however, the vehicle was not inspected or diagnosed. The contact stated that the failure persisted. The contact related some of the failures to Manufacturer Recall Number: U90 (Catalyst Efficiency). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 114,367.

NHTSA complaint #11715031 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

As I read the above comments/complaints on the 2014 Dodge Dart, I have realized that we all are having the same issues with the recall, the car not engaging in park, and the Keyfob not working properly where it takes from 5-30 minutes to turn the car off because it is still in the acc mode. Now the car has started yet ANOTHER problem that it doesn’t want to start. I paid for a tow to the repair shop and they checked everything out and could find absolutely nothing wrong, no codes showing up, nothing. I had bought a new battery, was about to replace the ignition switch and/or starter but the shop had experience with Dodge 2014 before and the same issues with no apparent issues?? I did pay for another key and fob which wasted $200 because even afterwards the fob wouldn’t release due to the car not going into the park position 100% and I’m still having all these problems. It is definitely a safety issue and we all are left here driving this piece of junk that the manufacturer doesn’t seem to have any answer or as they say “remedy” for the issue. And that’s another thing- we are having ISSUES not an issue. This problem has more involved than the recall and for the amount of people that have submitted a complaint should be an eye opener for the manufacturer - because most people don’t even report it because they don’t know to and the service department is going to get the money! There is and has been something going on with the entire braking, parking, transmission, cable, the last recall my car I was told wasn’t affected however the brakes went out totally without any warning or problem before hand. Said there was fluid or something that messed it up and it cost me $2000 to repair it when the exact issue was going on with the dodge dart 2013-2014 but of course MY CAR was not in that recall even though it had the same problem as the cats which were affected by the recall. I’ll never never purchase another Dodge and would advise anyone else not to purchase one.

NHTSA complaint #11708075 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

I have an open safety recall that has no available fix. My dealership confirmed they cannot repair it and advised me it may be unsafe. Because I cannot safely operate the vehicle, I am requesting a manufacturer buyback or financial assistance toward a replacement vehicle. Please escalate this to a case manager.

NHTSA complaint #11704516 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Vehicle is consuming oil, stalling, milage blinking, radio goes out, key switch will not turn to off, not going into park, oil pan bolts backing off, brakes shimmy over 55, list goes on, still no fix for the recall

NHTSA complaint #11701002 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Radio doesn't always turn on, the vehicle doesn't always go into park, the key switch doesn't always go into the lock position and stays in ACC mode.

NHTSA complaint #11698462 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

I am unable to remove my key after it is in park. I have the unplug my negative terminal to get the key to come out.

NHTSA complaint #11684531 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Bcm module is faulty.

NHTSA complaint #11627629 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

When I try to change the gear it says gear is not available and it blinks it says transmission service

NHTSA complaint #11621553 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Actuator in the engine making the valve stuck and not drivable, causes shaking, very poor acceleration, won’t shift, this started last summer, engine light bringing up actuator code

NHTSA complaint #11609072 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

I have a few problems to be addressed because this car have a real safety issue. One issue been happening was car sometimes doesn’t start. This problem maybe stalling starting may delay in cases of personally emergency’s. Second, I got a recall letter having emissions issues? During this recall letter I receive my inspection sticker was due, then I got a rejected sticker because it did failed emissions as noticed. I tried getting issue resolve at few of the dodge dealers nearby 3 places that’s the closest which were like almost an hour away, but there were a backlog of part not available? Since those two issues I had and having time to try getting these recalls and issue resolved, dealer said not much of an issue and couldn’t find much issues? Told the dealer I had recall and starter issues also with no check engine light on. The dealer did a diagnose on the car but couldn’t find actual problem but wanted to charge me on so much other things like spark plugs change before they can find the actual issue. I paid for the diagnose about 200+ out of pocket. Came to find out they diagnosed but now check engine light is ON now and I looked under hood myself found they didn’t reconnect the engine coil to spark plug, maybe check and forget to reconnect? I reconnected myself and then no check engine lights. I had to check myself why can’t I start and then check fuse box under hood, found relay was damaged, shorted out reason why car had issues starting. This is after I changed the battery which was problem wasn’t the reason couldn’t start. I did my research on this deeply cause now I have a much bigger issue, which I was losing my brake lines. I almost got into an accident but luckily still have E-brakes. I believe it’s the brake line front driver started leaking now. On top of brake issue, no brake lights came on still.I checked for any recalls or any updates and found there were the same or typical issues? I did checked my car Vin # and it said “0 unrepaired on my vehicle”?

NHTSA complaint #11601367 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Last Thursday, August 3rd, I reversed my car out of my garage. Upon putting it in Drive, the engine light came on as well as the PRND lights illuminated red. As I was driving, I noticed my car felt sluggish to my destination, but I did make it. When I parked, I noticed how jerky the car was when shifting from drive to park. After my appointment, the red PRND lights were gone, with the engine light still on. I had another appointment to get new tires, and the car ran fine this time, except engine light still on. Once my new tires were on, engine light also no longer lit. I took my car to get it diagnosed. It gave out 3 codes; po705-00, p1c86-92, and B1578-2B with the last code indicating problems with my antenna. I checked it, and it appears to be broken in 2 areas. The first code po705-00 indicates failure of the transmission control module; which is strange. There was a related recall in 2019, in which I did take my vehicle into a dealership, and it was supposed to have been taken care of. The code p1c86-92 has to do with the PRNDL Display Circuit Current Out Of Range. I now do not feel safe driving my car, and the dealerships can’t get me in to look at my car, so I’ve been calling all over the area to mechanics that specialize in transmission issues. I can’t in until Sept 6th, and that’s just for another diagnosis BEFORE ordering parts and giving me a quote. When I first had these issues, I began researching the codes. It seems that there are a LOT of people with Dodge Darts having these exact same issues, but no recall has been issued as of yet. Please take care of this. Mechanics and dealerships are way overbooked, some are no longer taking jobs because they’re so backed up, and people like myself with no other vehicle will not have transportation. And I live in a rural community. Getting a recall on these transmission issues would be really helpful, as like I stated, many are having these exact problems. Thank you!

NHTSA complaint #11537575 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

In 2019 dodge had a shift cable bushing recall. I had it fixed in 2021 after owning the car for a few months (recall V34) . At this time, 2 years later, I’m experiencing the same problems that would be present with a faulty shift cable bushing which is a major safety concern. My car says it’s not in park when the shifter is indeed in park.

NHTSA complaint #11536954 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

less than 2 years after purchasing this vehicle brand new my car started consuming oil and actually caused my car to die in the middle of the road. Chrysler ended up completely replacing my engine due to scoring found in the pistons. In the last year I have done another oil consumption and feel just under the threshold of what Chrysler deems "bad enough". They did an update and it has not been a problem since. In the past few months I have been having issues with my car in park not releasing my key. My car will be in park and I can turn it back 1 notch and it gets stuck in the ACC position. Turns out my shifter cable was damaged and I have replaced that with a $500+ repair. Well unfortunately it didn't completely solve my problem and I will still occasionally have the issue and now they are stating I need to completely replace my shifter and knob assembly. The repairs don't seem to stop...

NHTSA complaint #11490890 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

When placed into park the car does not register it's in park and therefore does not want to shut off. It can take up to 15 minutes to get it off. Seems dangerous since it keeps running and it starts to rev the engine.

NHTSA complaint #11489254 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

When trying to park the car it doesn’t necessarily allow you to turn the car off without moving the shifter around until the car is satisfied and allows you to finally shut down. Also the radio seems to just shut off and on once and awhile.

NHTSA complaint #11486586 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

When driving vehicle at 40+ mph and making a turn the vehicle then stalls, loosing power and the transmission will not resume acceleration after turn is completed. We had to pull the vehicle off the road and out of traffic because of power loss. The vehicle check engine light was illuminated prior to experiencing problem. A dealership in Oklahoma City, OK confirmed a transmission malfunction code.

NHTSA complaint #11481656 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

When I put my vehicle in park, the system doesn’t register that it’s in park and I cannot take out the key. It will show on the gear shift and the dash that my vehicle is in park but internally it doesn’t register.

NHTSA complaint #11479165 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Car engine is shutting off mid drive it car is not warmed up. And the parking mechanism is not going through when I try to park the car

NHTSA complaint #11440308 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ON THREE OCCASIONS, MY CAR HAS COMPLETELY TURNED OFF WHILE THE CAR WAS ON AND IN DRIVE. ON ONE OCCASION, IN SEPTEMBER 2019, I DRIFTED TO SAFETY AND TRIED PUTTING MY CAR IN PARK, THE SHIFTER EFFORTLESSLY SLID TO PARK MODE BUT THE LIGHT WAS ON "D" AS IF IT WERE IN DRIVE. I COULD NOT TAKE MY KEY OUT BECAUSE MY CAR THOUGHT IT WAS IN DRIVE SO I WAS STUCK WITH MY FOOT ON THE BREAK, WITH A CAR THAT SHUT DOWN ON ME. I COULDN'T EVEN MOVE THE KEY TO TRY TO TAKE IT OUT AND RESTART THE CAR. I BROUGHT MY CAR IN AND "FIXED IT'. I WAS TOLD THERE WAS A V34 RECALL AND THAT THEY REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION SIDE SHIFTER CABLE BUSHING. HOWEVER, LESS THAN A YEAR LATER IT HAPPENED AGAIN, TWICE TODAY (JUNE 2020). ONCE ON MY WAY TOO THE GYM AND ONCE FROM THE GYM, BACK HOME. ON BOTH OCCASIONS TODAY, THE ELECTRONICS ON THE TOUCH SCREEN AND THE DIGITAL DISPLAY THAT DISPLAYS THE SPEED WENT BLACK AND RESTARTED THEN MY CAR COMPLETELY DIED WHILE IN DRIVE. CARS PILED UP BEHIND ME. PEOPLE WERE HONKING AND ANGRY. I TRIED MOVING THE SHIFTER TO PARK SO I COULD TAKE MY KEY OUT AND RESTART BUT THE CAR LOCKED UP ON ME AND I WAS UNABLE TO MOVE THE SHIFT OR TAKE MY KEY OUT. I HAD TO WIGGLE THE KEY OUT FOR OVER A COUPLE MIN AND EVENTUALLY WAS ABLE TO MOVE THE KEY IN PARK AND TAKE IT OUT AND RESTARTED MY CAR. IT CAUSED A TRAFFIC DILEMMA AND WAS TERRIFYING THAT MY CAR COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN IN A NOT SO SAFE AREA AND ON A REALLY BUSY ROAD DURING RUSH HOUR. HOW COULD YOU SELL A CAR TO SOCIETY THAT WILL SPONTANEOUSLY STOP? I COULD HAVE DIED!

NHTSA complaint #11328147 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF, THE KEY FOB GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. THIS SOMETIMES CAN BE RESOLVED BY TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL, PRESSING ON THE BRAKE AND ADJUSTING THE SHIFTER FORWARD TO CLICK INTO PARK. IT'S AS IF THE SHIFTER IS NOT RECOGNIZING THE CAR IS IN PARK SO IT WILL NOT RELEASE THE KEY FOB. IT COULD USUALLY BY FIXED EASILY, NOW TAKES SOMETIMES 1-3 MINUTES; WHICH INCLUDES RESTARTING THE CAR AND PUTTING IT IN REVERSE OR DRIVE AND BACK INTO PARK. IT HAPPENS FREQUENTLY & THEN WILL STOP FOR A FEW DAYS. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP LAST WEEK FOR THIS ISSUE AND THE TRANSMISSION SLIPPING FROM DRIVE TO NEUTRAL WHILE I'M DRIVING AND THEY 'COULDN'T DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM' AS THEY STATED. HOWEVER, JUST THE PAST TWO DAYS IT'S HAPPENING AGAIN. THIS IS SIMILAR TO THE ISSUE FROM THE 2019 RECALL FOR THE BUSHING CABLES. THERE IS AN OBVIOUS ISSUE AS THIS IS NOT NORMAL. I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO TO FIX THIS IF THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THEY CAN'T FIND A PROBLEM. IS THERE A NEW RECALL OR OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS? ESPECIALLY FROM OTHER DODGE DART OWNERS WHO ALSO HAD A PART REPAIRED IN 2019 DUE TO THE LAST RECALL?

NHTSA complaint #11327029 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT STATED RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 19V293000 (POWER TRAIN). THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO STEVENS CREEK CHRYSLER JEEP DODGE RAM (4100 STEVENS CREEK BLVD, SAN JOSE, CA 95129) FOR THE RECALL REPAIR, HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START AFTER IT WAS RETURNED. THE DEALER AGREED TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE AND HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED. THE CONTACT THEN RECEIVED ANOTHER UNKNOWN RECALL NOTIFICATION AND RETURNED TO THE DEALER FOR THE REPAIR. UPON RETURN OF THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE AGAIN FAILED TO START. THE DEALER THEN INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE STARTER FAILURE WAS DUE TO A DEFECTIVE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY, A PART THAT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER THE RECALL. THE MANUFACTURER HAD BEEN NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND REFERRED THE CONTACT TO NHTSA FOR ASSISTANCE. THE TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 75,000.

NHTSA complaint #11320086 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS I HAVE GOTTEN INTO MY VEHICLE, STARTED IT AND DROVE OFF. NOW, IF I DO NOT LET IT WARM UP FOR A FEW MINUTES AND GET IN AND START IT AND TAKE OFF, IT WILL STALL OUT WHEN I SLOW DOWN OR COME TO A STOP ON A FEW OCCASIONS THIS HAS HAPPENED LEAVING MY DRIVEWAY ON A BLIND HILL, ALMOST GETTING ME HIT IN THE DRIVERS DOOR. YESTERDAY, 2/12/2020, THIS AGAIN HAPPENED AND IT STALLED OUT ON ME TWO TIMES, ONCE WHILE TURNING AROUND LEAVING ME SIDEWAYS ACROSS THE ROAD. IT HAS HAPPENED AT VERY BUSY INTERSECTIONS, IT IS JUST RANDOM.I FEEL IT NEEDS TO BE LOOKED INTO. I DID LOOK IT UP AND SEE NUMEROUS PEOPLE ARE REPORTING THE SAME ISSUES. LAST TIME THIS HAPPENED WAS ON 2/12/2020 WHILE LEAVING MY DRIVEWAY EACH TIME, THE CAR WAS IN DRIVE WHEN IT STALLED AND PULLING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY OR INTERSECTION.

NHTSA complaint #11308942 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CAR NOT RUNNING PROPERLY OR EVEN FUNCTIONING DUE TO AN ISSUE WITH THE BODY CONTROL MODULE. RUNNING ROUGH, SCREEN TO GPS BLACKING OUT. NO ABILITY TO EVEN TURN THE HEAT OFF/ON WHEN MALFUNCTIONING. THESE ARE ALL THINGS THAT OCCUR EITHER WHEN IDLING OR THE CAR IS IN MOTION.

NHTSA complaint #11291832 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK, THE CAR DOESN'T TURN OFF. WE BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER TO GET A RECALL DONE, BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NEVER FIXED. I THINK DODGE JUST SENT THE NOTICE AND LIED ABOUT HOW TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THE DEALER, SURESKY, WANTED TO CHARGE TO HAVE THE DIAGNOSTICS DONE ON THE CAR, BUT SINCE THE RECALL WAS NEVER FIXED, I DON'T WANT TO PAY FOR THE DIAGNOSTICS. THE SAME PROBLEM STILL EXISTS.

NHTSA complaint #11279965 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO LOSE POWER. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE. THE CONTACT PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER AND NOTICED THAT THE BATTERY WARNING INDICATOR WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO START THE IGNITION AND HEARD AN ABNORMAL NOISE. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE HOME. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALER AND MANUFACTURER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,405.

NHTSA complaint #11279919 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF WITHOUT WARNING. AFTERWARDS, THE VEHICLE WOULD SOMETIMES RESTART AND OTHER TIMES IT WOULD TAKE MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS TO RESTART. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER WERE NOT NOTIFIED. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 70,000. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA complaint #11271651 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

MY GRAND MOTHER WAS DRIVING HER 2014 DODGE DART AND HER ELECTRONIC DASH CLUSTER QUIT WORKING WHILE SHE WAS DRIVING. THE DASH CLUSTER IN HER CAR IS THE SPEEDOMETER AND ALL NECESSARY GAUGES AND DISPLAYS. WHEN WE TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER THE DEALER SAID THAT IT WAS A KNOWN ISSUE BUT THEY SAID THAT THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. I THINK THIS IS SIMILAR TO THE RECENT RECALL ON THE NEW DODGE'S THAT HAD A RECALL ON THE DASH CLUSTERS ALSO. THE DEALER ALSO SAID THAT THE DASH CLUSTERS WERE ON BACKORDER BECAUSE THEY ARE REPLACING THAT MANY OF THEM. MY GRANDMA WAS DRIVING IN TOWN LESS THAN 35 MPH ZONE. SHE SAID THAT THE DISPLAY WAS THERE THEN GONE. SHE WAS NOT SURE WHAT HAPPENED. SHE WAS NOT SURE WHAT WAS WORKING OR NOT WORKING ON HER CAR SHE MADE IT HOME AND PARKED THE CAR.

NHTSA complaint #11266653 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

MY GRANDMA WAS DRIVING HER CAR IN TOWN AND THE DASH CLUSTER QUIT WORKING. I TRIED CHECKING FUSES AND DID NOT FIND ANYTHING SIMPLE TO FIX THE DASH CLUSTER TO QUIT WORKING. SHE TOOK THE CAR TO THE LOCAL DODGE DEALER WHERE THE CAR WAS PURCHASED. WHEN THEY ASKED WHAT HAPPENED EXPLAINED THAT THE DASH CLUSTER JUST QUIT WORKING. THEY SAID THAT IS VERY COMMON ISSUE. I THINK IT IS A SAFETY ISSUES BECAUSE YOU CAN'T SEE ANYTHING NO MPH, GAUGES OF ANY SORT FUEL, TEMPERATURE. WHEN OPERATING THE CAR YOU HAVE TO GUESS WHEN THE DASH CLUSTER IS NOT WORKING.

NHTSA complaint #11255571 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.