57 of the
465 complaints filed about the Chevrolet Captiva
are about the other systems —
12% of everything owners reported.
The worst model year for it is 2014.
My car was functioning normally. But on or about Jan 7, I was simply moving the car to another parking area in my driveway. The car stopped and would not restart. It was towed to a local dealer. I was told the problem was a drive chain, resulting in a repair that could cost thousands. Now the car rests in my yard with a future as a flower pot. There had been no warning of trouble, no smell, no sound etc. It the car had been at speed on a highway this could have been catastrophic to me and other motorists. I spent thousands to buy this car and now it is gone. My insurance refused a claim, citing the engine failure. What options do I have? I am 77 years old.
NHTSA complaint #11714712 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
Drive Belt Tensioner is broken, causing loud noise under the hood. The belt could be affected if not repaired and confirmed by Firestone Auto Care. Nothing else but Chevy GM will not fix the issue even though there is a specific service campaign bulletin in regards to the issue.
NHTSA complaint #11472566 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The key is stuck and will not release from my ignition. I have tried numerous ways to get the key out and it just won't come out. I have had to disconnect my battery so that it doesn't drain my battery, but the issue is still there. I can't use my car to go to work due to the fact my key won't come out. This has really put me in a bind and is unacceptable. I don't have the money to have this fixed and I would like for the manufacturer to help me out. This is a real safety issue. I have had my car looked at by a mechanic and he is unsure of exactly how to fix this.
NHTSA complaint #11467914 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The key intermediately gets stuck in the ignition and will not come out, have to wiggle and move steering wheel and move from park to drive then try repeated times to get the key out. This appears to be a common problem with 2014 captivas.
NHTSA complaint #11456661 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The key keeps getting stuck in the ignition once the car is off. This prevents me from being able to leave my car unattended. I was trying to go grocery shopping and couldn't because the key wouldn't come out of the ignition for me to lock the doors. 01/04/2022. The most recent time this happened before today was about 2 weeks ago 12/21/2021. I tried starting the vehicle again and turning it off and it still wouldn't allow the key to release. My husband was able to get the key out the last after several hours. We will be scheduling an appointment with service center when an appointment becomes available to have it inspected. Based on research this has been an issue with captiva's in the past.
NHTSA complaint #11446193 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The key gets stuck in ignition and can't be removed when in park. If key can't be removed and remains in the car, it will drain the battery. The key gets stuck often maybe every other trip but at least once a day. This started happening over the last 6 months on random occasions but has increased in frequency in the last 30 days. It's now a regular event in which the key won't release from the ignition. Sometimes after multiple attempts at restarting the car and changing from park to drive and then to park again and changing position of the key, it may release after 20 minutes of this process. This is a safety issue because the car can be stolen with a key left in the ignition and/or the battery will be drained. Both are not good. There are numerous reports of this issue on the internet from other other with same car.
NHTSA complaint #11423560 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
UNKNOWN, several times between my husband or myself while driving down the road and on the interstate, the vehicle would just completely shut off no lights, no brakes no nothing. We purchased the vehicle used so we thought that it had something to do with some minor maintenance but this first occurred only after having the vehicle for two weeks. We've taken the vehicle back to where we purchased it, they could not find any issues with the vehicle and taken it to other locations with no luck on solving issue. The vehicle does not give any signs or warning when it will shut down while drive. Here recently when using the turn signals, switching on high beams, or even turning on the radio causes the vehicle shut down.
NHTSA complaint #11418637 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
WE WERE INVOLVED IN A DOMINO EFFECT ACCIDENT, WHERE MY CAR WAS TOTALED. IT SUFFERED SEVERE FRONT AND REAR DAMAGE, WITH THE REAR WINDOW SHATTERED AS WE WERE STRUCK FROM BEHIND WHILE STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON AN INTERSTATE. NONE OF THE AIRBAGS DEPLOYED.
NHTSA complaint #11412839 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
WHEN I PUT MY CAR IN PARK, SOMETIMES I CAN'T GET THE KEY TO TURN OFF THE CAR. I HAVE TO BACK UP, PULL FORWARD SEVERAL TIMES THEN FINALLY SOMETIMES I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. I WAS COMPLETELY STOPPED AND IN PARK. IT HAPPENS A LOT.
NHTSA complaint #11387368 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
THE CAPTIVA SUDDENLY SHUTS DOWN RANDOMLY FOR ABSOLUTELY NO REASON. THE ISSUE WAS DIRECTED TO BE REPAIRED IN THE OTHER CHEVY VEHICLES BECAUSE THEY ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN HOWEVER THE CAPTIVA IS A FLEET VEHICLE WHICH MEANS THEY DIDN'T FIX THE KNOWN ISSUE OF PUTTING A FORD BATTERY SENSOR ON A CHEVY VEHICLE BECAUSE FLEET VEHICLES ARE RARELY SERVICED BY A DEALERSHIP. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE IF THEY HAVEN'T ALREADY. THIS HAPPENED TO ME LOSING ALL POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN GOING 65 MPH ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME. I'VE NOT DRIVEN THIS CAR SINCE AUGUST BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DIE AND I STILL OWE ABOUT 4 YEARS OF PAYMENTS ON THIS LEMON.
NHTSA complaint #11386294 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
BOUGHR THE SUV FROM DEALER WITH 63 K MILES. DID OIL CHANGES ON TIME AND MAINTENANCE. CAR ENGINE IS NLIWN AT 86K MILES. FIRST THE CAR STARTED TI IDKE RIUGH DURING STOPS. CMTOOK IN. THEY REPLACED CRANKSHAFT SENSORS. CLEANED THROTTLE.BODY. RAN OK FOR 2 MONTHS. THEN PROBLEM CAME BACK. HOWEVER THE NEXT DAY THE SUV WOULDN'T START. DID A CRANK NO START I CHANGED THE BATTERY, TRIED THE SPARK PLUGS, FUEL FILTER. STILL NO CRANK. THE MECHANIC WHO LOOKED AT IT FOUND THAT. THE TIMING CHAIN LOST TENSION.. BECAUSE A PLASTIC CLIP. WHICH HOLDS TWNSION ON THE TIMING CHAIN WAS MISSING..A PLASTIC PIECE.. CAUSED MY TIMING TO SHIFT WHERE IT MESSED UP THE ECM. THIS CAUSED THE PISTONS TO SHOOT WHEN THE VALVE WAS CLOSED. SO NOW A CAR I BOUGHT FOR 12K. AND PAID OFF.. ONLY TO PUT 20K MILES ON IT.. WILL COST ME 7K FOR A REFURBISHED ENGINE SWAP.
NHTSA complaint #11323933 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MY 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA GETS STUCK AND IT DOES NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE REMOVED WHEN TURNING IT OFF WHEN STATIONARY. UPON PERSONAL RESEARCH IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THIS MODEL HAS HAD THIS ISSUE WITH COUNTLESS DRIVERS (TYPICALLY AT 40K-50K MILES) AND IS NOT ADDRESSED BY GM AS A RECALL OR SAFETY ISSUE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE SWITCH IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED IT IS A SENSORY ISSUE, THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALSO ABLE TO COME OUT WHILE ON DRIVE. A SIMPLE SEARCH 'CHEVY CAPTIVA KEY STUCK' WILL RESULT IN MANY SUCH INCIDENTS.
NHTSA complaint #11321535 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT THE IGNITION WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF, I HAVE TO LEAVE THE KEY IN AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND USE MY SPARE KEY TO LOCK THE VEHICLE, SUCH A HASSLE
NHTSA complaint #11306452 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
THE VEHICLE IS LIGHTWEIGHT TO THE POINT WHERE HIGH WINDS PUSH THE CAR TO THE SIDE WHILE IT IS IN MOTION. YOU CAN FEEL THE WIND MOVING IT AND FEEL THE CAR MOVE A LOT WHEN OTHER VEHICLES ARE DRIVING AT HIGH SPEEDS NEXT TO IT.
NHTSA complaint #11221600 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
DURING THE LAST WEEK OF MAY 2019 RADIO TURNING ON/OFF INTERMITTENTLY - THOUGHT IT WAS ISSUE WITH RADIO STATION, BUT ON-LINE CHEVY FORUMS INDICATE IT IS A SIGN OF LARGER ELECTRICAL ISSUES. JUNE 1, 2019, ENTERING VEHICLE AFTER DINNER OUT, INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE FLICKERING; DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED AT NIGHT WITH AC & CRUISE CONTROL ON THERE WAS A SUDDEN NOXIOUS ODOR IRRITATING TO EYES, NOSE, AND THROAT (2 PEOPLE ILL); HEADLIGHTS FLICKERING; OPENED WINDOWS TO VENTILATE; MADE IT HOME (~12 MILES); ALL LIGHTS - EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR - STILL FLICKERING UPON ARRIVAL HOME; STILL A STRONG NOXIOUS ODOR - STRONGER ON INTERIOR DRIVER SIDE OF VEHICLE; INTERNET SEARCH OF SYMPTOMS INDICATED DRIVER VISOR MIGHT BE EXTREMELY HOT - WENT OUT TO CHECK AND IT WAS VERY HOT - EVEN AFTER SITTING WHILE WE DID INTERNET SEARCH; FURTHER INTERNET SEARCH INDICATES MANY CHEVY CAPTIVA OWNERS COMPLAINING OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS; FORUMS INDICATE KNOWN BATTERY CABLES VOLTAGE DROP ISSUE LEADING TO EXPENSIVE REPAIRS (~$1000) NOT COVERED UNDER RECALL, SO WE DISCONNECTED BATTERY OVERNIGHT UNTIL WE COULD CHECK THINGS IN THE DAYLIGHT. 6/2/19 - AFTER LEAVING VEHICLE BATTERY DISCONNECTED OVERNIGHT, RECONNECTED AND DRIVER VISOR IMMEDIATELY GOT WARM TO TOUCH - CAR NOT EVEN CRANKED, JUST SITTING IN THE SHADY DRIVEWAY WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED. SHIFTED VISOR DOWN AND THERE WAS A LOUD POP/CLICK NOISE. VISOR WOULD NOT FULLY RETURN TO STOWED POSITION. DISCONNECTED BATTERY AGAIN. NOT A SAFE SITUATION WITH OVERHEATING VISOR, NOXIOUS FUMES, AND FLUTTERING LIGHTS. CHEVY FORUMS INDICATE THIS HAS BEEN A KNOW ISSUE SINCE 2012, BUT DEALERSHIPS WILL ONLY ASSIST WHILE CAR IS STILL IN ORIGINAL PURCHASE WARRANTY PERIOD. FORUMS INDICATE THIS WAS A RECALL IN EUROPE/GREAT BRITAIN, BUT NOT HERE IN USA. RIDICULOUS. AN AMERICAN COMPANY NOT TAKING CARE OF ITS AMERICAN CUSTOMERS... FOR YEARS... MULTIPLE YEAR MODELS REPORTING SAME ISSUES.
NHTSA complaint #11217426 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.