536 of the
4,094 complaints filed about the Chrysler Sebring
are about the engine —
13% of everything owners reported.
The worst model year for it is 2001.
The car loss compression in the middle of driving. Try to crank it but it drains the battery. Also, I bought the car a year the buy here pay here company ripped out the lemon law page for Tennessee but kept the other pages in.
NHTSA complaint #11675841 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
Driving on [XXX] in Indiana my rpm’s began to accelerate and I hit my breaks and once I got to 30 mph my breaks went out. I looked online and one after another of complaints for exactly this has been posted in rooms. It was towed to our mechanic and hopefully he can figure out why INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
NHTSA complaint #11648298 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
Engine frequently stalls while driving. I've had my car shut off while I'm driving many times, the steering wheel and brakes lock up and it makes it hard to get off the street to safety. This happens a LOT. It is very dangerous and scary. I get anxiety everytime I drive because I'm scared of it happening again. My car once turned off in the middle of a busy intersection while trying to turn. It came on after about 45 seconds but it was terrifying. Battery often dies (just replaced it). Horn would go off randomly without stopping for a long time. I had to disconnect the horn (on both sides) because it would keep randomly going off with no way to stop it. Cruise control stopped working one day. Sometimes it comes up when I press cruise control but it turns off when I try setting a speed. Drivers window broke inside, I think something snapped inside the door. I've had it replaced 3 times but it keeps breaking. A/C makes an awful grinding noise sometimes, but it goes away if I turn the A/C off then back on. Also with the A/C, a door or something inside the dash will get stuck every so often and it makes a LOUD clicking like noise but it goes away after about 20 seconds (something to do with the actuator?). Brake light will come on sometimes when I stop. It goes away shortly after I start driving again. ABS light has been on my dash for a few months now. Most of these issues have been happening for over a year now. Most of this shows up under a recall from 2008, ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: WIRING. It doesn't show up under my VIN number but I'm having the same exact problems.
NHTSA complaint #11589060 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
I was on my way to work. All the warning light appeared on my dash. Then all the warning light, radio, speedometer gage and all head light and tail lights went out. I was driving in the dark. My engine bogged down no power. I was barley moving. I replaced the battery no difference. I replaced the alternator worked for 3 minutes and then the car was back to the same as before. I contacted a nearby mechanic facility they told me that it was most definitely the fuse panel under the hood. That's its not a recall but a lawsuit replacement. I notified the manufacturer and they told me my Vin number was not under recall. I'm confused on what to do not. I'm in no way able to purchase a new vehicle at this time. Nor spend hundreds or thousands in repairs. Please help.
NHTSA complaint #11563938 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
Random stalling upon deceleration with no warning lights after stalling (as if the engine thinks it is still running). Occurs at low speed. Sometimes the engine will surge when the rpm drops off instead of stalling. I have almost run into other cars when the surging happens. The stalling occurs randomly and is becoming more frequent. A scan of the internet shows many others with same issue. No CEL.
NHTSA complaint #11527525 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
purchased may 15th.and now car sits in my apartment parking lot as a roadblock for all tenants since May 27th. 2008sebring started fine.drove 2 miles roundtrip, vehicle ride was rough upon turning into residence thankfully I was not on the street in traffic when the car decided to stop ,the windows were down I still have not been able to get them rolled up .lights instrument panel lights went haywire flashing,ding chime sound continuous. the backdash illuminate light has never worked. wont accept jump from cables,has power in areas under hood, charged to 12v on charger able to get code (DTC-U1403 implausible fuel level signal. Just like the recall of the wiring issue it's similar. The week this happened the tire pressure indicator in the lower left corner of Dash was lit up and the cruise control light would come on but when engaged it would not drive at the limit set only reduce is speed the stereo CD changer didn't work I thought it was just because it was old the cigarette lighter which I used for my power source the light on that device would flicker in and out showing it wasn't getting a good connection the key would get stuck in the ignition or do a continuous storage where you it would not spring back as it should you'd have to turn it off and then try to restart it the battery in the fob work just fine before all of this took place now the battery is dead in the fob as well. it won't hold a charge I want to know how it's going to get fixed and with whose money?? $95 for Diagnostic.while covering windows later that night,I was able to see a dim red light where the tire pressure indicator was lit up at the fuses are fine the battery is 6 months old but it is constantly draining I it won't stay charged I can't get it out of gear it to put it in neutral to move it anywhere. Main purpose was to get me to my doctor appointments now I can't even do that& I haven't been able to do that.. i think this recall has Revisited. its unsafe
NHTSA complaint #11526510 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
New battery, plugs and wires, new alternator. It will run for 5 seconds after jumping, then lights pop on and it dies. When jumping the negative also throws a spark while trying to start.
NHTSA complaint #11522581 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The contact owns a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power with smoke coming from underneath the hood. Smoke then entered the cabin of the vehicle. No warning light was illuminated. Additionally, the odometer was inoperable. The contact restarted the vehicle; however, the failure recurred. The contact stated that her daughter had asthma; however, the contact and her two children did not receive medical attention. The dealer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact to tow the vehicle to their location. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown. The VIN was unavailable.
NHTSA complaint #11512130 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
In February 2021 my car wouldn’t stop, tried to give it a jump and it still wouldn’t start. Replaced the battery and it started working again. In April 2021 my engine light came on. I got a diagnostic and the error code read: P2016 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Bank 1. I didn’t get it fixed. Shortly after, I began hearing a faint crackling noise and noticed when I would drive on turn pikes my a red brake symbol would briefly pop up on my dash board and then go away. In May 2021 my horn stopped working and front right turn signal light stopped working. I tried to get a new one installed it wouldn’t work. I was told it could be an electrical issue. In July 2021 my right low beam head light stopped working. I tried to get a new bulb installed and it still wouldn’t work. At this time I was told the same thing, that it seems like there may be an electrical issue. This month, November 2021, a few days ago on Monday November 1st, I began noticing an acceleration issue in the morning. I would press the accelerator and it wouldn’t pick up until a few seconds later, it was like a delay. Later that day while I was driving on the free way a red flash symbol with lines between it began flashing on my car and my car wouldn’t drive over 20 mph. I pulled over. Shortly after I turned my car back on and it began driving semi normal and I was able to get home. I tried out my car the next day and in the morning the same thing happened again. The red flash symbol with 2 lines on the side of it began flashing on my dashboard and my car wouldn’t go over 20 mph. I’m not sure what the issue is but when I looked up what the red flashing symbol, I noticed a few others who had a similar experience with their 2008 Chrysler Sebring which made me want to look up whether there was a recall and I found out there was but when I searched whether my car was eligible through my VIN number it said there was none unrepaired.
NHTSA complaint #11439587 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
The contact owns a 2008 Chrysler Sebring. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 MPH, the vehicle suddenly stalled. The contact waited for a while for the vehicle to cool off before being able to operate the vehicle as intended. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact had taken the vehicle to a certified mechanic who replaced the alternator, battery, and TIPM however, the failure continued. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 23,000.
NHTSA complaint #11438928 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
My TPS light has been on for quite some time and after a short time since the first time it appeared my issue worsens everyday. My car STALLS, not only when I am stopped at a light, but even when I am driving at high speeds and the Check Engine light stays on all the time and blinks and dings at times and now the airbag light is on as well and blinks and dings all the time while the car is started. I took the car to get check for error codes, but none come up when the diagnostics is ran.
NHTSA complaint #11435171 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
Drivers side seat belt Does Not Retract. Engine Piston Rod Bearings are defective heat up melt and may cause an Engine Fire like in Hyundai Rod Bearing Recall. Common on Chrysler V6 Engine. May cause Blown engine, snapped Piston Rods, Heat and Engine Fire.
NHTSA complaint #11423573 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
MY SON WAS DRIVING FORWARD UP A HILL. WHILE DRIVING THE CAR STARTED ROLLING BACKWARDS WHILE IN DRIVE GEAR. THEN WHILE THE VEHICLE DECIDED TO ROLL BACKWARDS IN DRIVE GEAR HE WAS UNABLE TO STOP. SINCE MY SON WAS UNABLE TO STOP HE PUT THE CAR IN PARK THE VEHICLE STILL CONTINUE TO ROLL BACKWARDS. AS A RESULT MY SON JUMPED OUT OF THE VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE ROLLED DOWN THE HILL AND HIT A TREE AND BOULDERS. HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY FOUND NOTHING WRONG. HOWEVER A WITNESS SEEN WHAT WAS HAPPENING TO MY SON IN DISBELIEF. THIS VEHICLE IS VERY UNSAFE FOR ANYONE TO DRIVE,
NHTSA complaint #11405828 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
AT ANY GIVEN MOMENT LOSS OF POWER WILL OCCUR AND MOTOR WILL SHUT OFF. ANYTIME ON THE FREEWAY OR PARKED. OCCASIONALLY AT RANDOM INTERVALS CAR WILL CRANK BUT NOT TURN OVER UNTIL AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO START IT WILL TURN OVER APPROPRIATELY.
NHTSA complaint #11405461 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2008 CHRYSLER SEBRING. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, THE ENGINE OVERHEATED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT RELATED THE FAILURE TO NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 04V473000 (ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING). THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A LOCAL DEALER TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT BEEN INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 50,197.
NHTSA complaint #11405030 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
DRIVING VEHICLE ON INTERSTATE WITH NO WARNING CAR LOST SPEED, STALLED THEN SHUT OFF. WOULD NOT START BACK UP. VEHICLE TUT OWED TO LICENSE MECHANIC AND ENGINE PISTONS WAS BROKEN. ENGINE BLEW UP WITHOUT SIGNS. LESS THAN 64,000 MILES.
NHTSA complaint #11361659 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
MY CAR CRANKS AND STARTS, THEN DIES ABOUT 2 SECONDS LATER. AFTER SEVERAL TRIES, IT USUALLY STARTS. HOWEVER, I HAVE HAD IT INTO A CHRYSLER DEALER TWICE WITHOUT THEM FINDING ANYTHING WRONG. IT USUALLY DECIDES TO RUN JUST FINE WHILE IN THE SHOP. IT WILL OFTEN GO FOR A FEW MONTHS, THEN START REPEATING THIS SCENARIO. THIS HAS BEEN ON-GOING FOR ABOUT A YEAR.
NHTSA complaint #11351816 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.
I TOOK THE VEHICLE AFTER PURCHASE TO THE SHOP TO LOOK OVER AND SELLER AGREED THAT HE WOULD COVER THE COST FOR "SENSOR" ISSUE AS HE STATED! THE CAR NEEDS A CAMSHAFT AND DUE TO THE AGE OF THE VEHICLE THE MECHANIC STATED IF THAT PART IS REPLACED IT WILL POSSIBLY NEED A TRANSMISSION AS WELL AS A NEW ENGINE. THEREFORE THE REPAIRS WOULD EXCEED THE VALUE OF THE VEHICLE OR NOT WORK AT ALL AND WASTE ALL THAT MONEY. CAR HAD ISSUES STARTING FROM DAY 1 TOO.
NHTSA complaint #11350237 — an unverified report by a vehicle owner.